On two recent cold, clear winter nights, I walked for several blocks both east and west along J Street. It's not a usual evening destination, but on both occasions while scurrying along in the chill, I remember thinking that midtown has become increasingly handsome.

Several old restaurants, supply stores and art galleries all have new facades. There are new sushi bars, new coffee shops and newly lighted storefront signs. The stretch between 19th and 28th streets, in particular, has a nearly cosmopolitan appeal.

I remember the last time I noticed a similar change. It seems like only a few years ago when Centro Cocina Mexicana, then the newest restaurant of the Paragary Group restaurant, opened. It had massive picture windows, and a new approach with its museum-like decor. The lines were long.

But it's now 12 years old, and it's a midtown stalwart rather than a go-to-be-seen new joint.

Like other Paragary restaurants, Centro Cocina Mexicana offers a mixed interior presentation. It's a stand-alone bar and a restaurant with multiple dining area options.

The main dining area, in fact, only one booth behind the hostess stand, was our domain on a recent Friday night. My wife and I were joined by another couple and we sat among families and other dining couples and not too far from the revolving after-dinner cocktail-hour crowd at the parallel bar.

As its name implies, Centro Cocina Mexicana specializes in food one might find in a Mexican kitchen, which appropriately is what the restaurant offers as its focus.

The kitchen is located between the main dining room and another smaller dining area. It's worth it to stop and take a look on the way to the bar or restrooms. The cooks and wait staff are in constant motion. Flames are flaming, grills are grilling and the entire scene has a controlled chaos appeal.

If you're not familiar with Centro's cuisine, then the open kitchen is also just the place to observe a good selection of what's available as it quickly moves past on servers' trays.

We expected our friends at 7 p.m., but since Centro doesn't take reservations for parties of less than six, we decided to get to the restaurant early. We added my name the seating list and took a corner booth in the bar.

Centro received some media attention recently when it ended its policy of charging for tortilla chips. It does, however, charge the same ($7.75) for a large order of guacamole as it does for several of its other more substantial appetizers — quesadillas, chalupas and taquitos.

The guacamole is a fresh, nicely spiced mix of avocado, white onion and serrano chile, and it's served with roasted tomato and tomarillo salsas. Centro has a nice selection of draft beer (among many other alc
ohol offerings), including my choice, the blonde Belgium Ale, Blue Moon.

Our friends arrived on time and we were seated promptly. Margaritas are Centro's signature drink (there are several dozen choices) and while still deciding on dinner selections, my friend Bruce ordered a margarita Cazadorea ($8.75) and I opted for the Especial ($8.75). Taquilla aficionados rave about Centro's margaritas, and they're tasty, The cocktail style offerings, not blended margaritas, however, may be unfamiliar to some customers.

Our party ordered an additional antojito (appetizer), the quesadillo de hongos ($7.75) and then four entrees — the combination plate of papas y rajas (potatoes and roasted peppers burrito and camarones (shrimp) taco ($10.25), enchiladas de pollo (chicken, $14), tamales de pollo ($11.75) and tacos de pollo ($10.25). Each entree combination was served with rice and a choice of whole or refried black beans or frijoles charros (spicy "cowboy beans").

The entrees were all served at once, although the temperature of the food varied from lukewarm (some servings of black beans) to appropriately heated (the entrees).

Alene, who ordered tamales, remarked that unlike other restaurants  in which opening cornhusks is a chore, the Centro variety offered easy access and a fresh and tasty steamed mixture of seasoned chicken, peppers, tomatillo sauce and masa.

The chicken enchiladas and tacos were awarded OK remarks, but since my entree choices were the most spicy, they're likely get strong reactions for any diner. My burrito was a fine combination of individuals tastes, with no shortage of surprise blasts of pepper and chile heat. (Bring it on!). I also liked the shrimp tacos, again since the taste of the ingredients could be individually distinguished and also worked well together.

The foursome split two desserts, both nicely crafted and perfectly sized for sharing. Our choices: Platanos Flameados con Ron (Bananas flambé) with with vanilla ice cream, Myers’ Rum sauce, toasted almonds and coconut.
($6.50) and Pay de Coco con Crema (Coconut cream pie) served with whipped cream and caramelized bananas,
toasted coconut flakes ($6.50). The former wasn't offered flambé style, but it wasn't a concern.

Like many Mexican  restaurants, Centro plays its music a little too loud. Its volume, added to the level of the bar patrons' conversations, didn't help the ease of conversation at our booth. Centro should consider installing a coat rack.

And, finally, like the reputation of other Paragary restaurants, the wait staff at Centro (we had several arrive at our table), was attentive, polite and efficient.

(Centro Cocina Mexicana is located at 2730 J Street. Tel. (916) 442-2552. Hours: Lunch: Monday-Friday: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Limited menu available between 2:30-4:30 p.m. Saturday: 11:30 a.m-4:30 p.m. Dinner: Monday- Wednesday: 5-10 p.m., Thursday: 5-11 p.m., Friday: 5 p.m.-midnight, Saturday, 4:30 p.m. midnight, Sunday: 4:30- 9 p.m. Bar hours: Monday-Wednesday: open until 11:00 p.m., Thursday-Saturday: open until 2 a.m., Sunday: open until 10 p.m.)