Amid skyscraper hotels, a convention center, a monstrous sports stadium and the general hustle-bustle of downtown Los Angeles, I recently discovered (like millions of others have), the best comfort food around at The Original Pantry.

The place opened in the 1920s and there are often lines around the block.

I had my indoctrination last week after the first night of the Los Angeles Auto Show
. While walking from the LA Convention Center to my hotel, I saw the place and wondered why I'd didn't discover it like 30 years ago. I'd go out of my way to return, and it can't be soon enough.

It's an old-style dinner. Menus on the wall. Breakfast served 24/7. I sat at the counter. Waitress said I needed to try chili bean soup, sourdough bread and cole slaw. Wasn't about to argue. Huge portions, homemade, couldn't have tasted better. Next time, apple pie a la mode. Looked way too good.

Address: 877 South Figureoa St. Phone: 213 972-9279; Web site: www.pantrycafe.com.